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Rust


Mine has the handlebar end rust, and the bolts holding the front disks went rusty too.

Someone posted a pic of rust on or around the suspension spring the other day as well.

Seems maybe we've all bought the 2 wheeled equivalent of a 1973 Lancia. :D
 
Its probably true that most of the assembly parts are cheap and it may rust when you ride it in all sorts of winter conditions. And yes it is probably not a good choice for a trusty commuter...But on the other hand I never saw any ads sayin it was. "rise up your darkness" ...and go for daily commuting in rain, snow, salty roads an what not. Not really huh? Then wash away with fat removing cleanser and store away outside or in a cold storage and excpect a rust free bike?

This a cheap naked bike meant to be used in sunny summer weather with a lot of attitude attached to it. If you want to buy a long lasting commuting combating bike this is not it. And then again never intended to be. Or disguised as. :)

With all that said, I don't think it should rust in 2 months. But you get what you pay for.
 
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View attachment 1569Not 2 months 2 week... then 5,500 notes for this bike sounds over priced maybe we have all been f**ked over by Yamaha lol Not so cheap after all then
 

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Accept it for what it is: a budget bike. With ditto rust protection. Especially not made to be driven all winter long through the salt..

I don't say I agree with that kind of quality (or lack thereof), but I guess it's the reality we have to face.

What to do about it? Keep it clean, waxed and oiled as good as possible! And then hope it will last longer :)
 
U whiners... ;-)

Yamaha have had the same steel barend weights on all bikes for some decades now, so what's new.
If your brake rotors rust you have some options, pick the one you fancy the most:
A. Ride more and brake harder and they'll stay shiny.
B. Paint your rotors and park your ride.
The MT07 is low priced all right but still made in Japan, when Honda, KTM, HD etc. rely on other less developed countries for their budget bike offerings.
The MT07 engine is a gem, it looks good, weight is right (>20 kg less than all other competing Japs), price was pretty good at least last year.

The budget rear shock, linkage and steel swing is nothing to write home about, but it still kind of works for normal riding. The alternative Street Triple cost 40% ! more than the MT07 in Sweden
 
and30ers said:
U whiners... ;-)

Yamaha have had the same steel barend weights on all bikes for some decades now, so what's new.
If your brake rotors rust you have some options, pick the one you fancy the most:
A. Ride more and brake harder and they'll stay shiny.
B. Paint your rotors and park your ride.
The MT07 is low priced all right but still made in Japan, when Honda, KTM, HD etc. rely on other less developed countries for their budget bike offerings.
The MT07 engine is a gem, it looks good, weight is right (>20 kg less than all other competing Japs), price was pretty good at least last year.

The budget rear shock, linkage and steel swing is nothing to write home about, but it still kind of works for normal riding. The alternative Street Triple cost 40% ! more than the MT07 in Sweden
Click to expand...

Actually, in the face of such a stern lecture, I'll come out and say it.

The MT07 is the biggest piece of crap I've ever bought. I have had probably 20 bikes in my riding career, half of which were new, half used. Probably 2/3 were Yamahas. I have never had to make any kind of warranty claim on any of them before, but this piece of junk has been back 3 times, spending 7 weeks off the road, and none of the problems have been solved.

The only reason it hasn't gone back again is that the dealer now refuses to respond to me, and Yamaha have very politely told me to piss off. It still stalls, the clutch slips, and it is rusting.

So, yeah. I'm a whiner. A whiner with an irritating piece of shit bike.

Meantime, read it properly. It's not the rotors, it's the bolts holding them on.
 
Same goes for that bolt, it's been the same for most Yamaha's at least for 15 years, identical part number.
Same goes for most other bolts on the bike as well. I can give you swingarm, that's a MT07 specific part.
View attachment 1570

I know about some stalls, but what was it with the clutch? Have tried to search the forum for answer but cant find any, please tell me.

Then again I guess many clutch components as well are shared with other Yamahas.

Latest 50.000 long test / durability report from Motorrad placed Yamaha XJ6 on 4th place so they can't be all that bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmRivDsf4do
 
hi all/Sdrio
the latest post suggests to me that perhaps Sdrio has got a bad un, it does happen in any product that from time to time one finished item has many issues, I would however be more concerned that the customer services both at the dealership and Yam are not cooperating.
I have had our C4 piccaso from new [2014 new model] and I am back and to from the dealership with electrical issues that are intermittent, however to be fair to them they have taken the time to look at it each time and done what ever they do. this is what I would expect from any dealership especially big ones like in with your problem Sdrio .
but as I am yet to pick my MT up I sympathise with Sdrio and hope to god mine will be ok
4 days and waiting
 
Same bolt on the 2002 TDM 900, another crossplane twin Yam. That bike is widely recognized for it's bulletproofness, I have one and it's superb.
View attachment 1571
 
My point is:
- Last time I checked, metal is prone to corrosion
- MT07 is still made in Japan using many bolts, bits and bobs that are exactly the same as other Yamahas last 15 yrs
- Relatively we get more than we are paying for when buying the MT07, compared to other Yamahas and other brands competing offerings.
 
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KEVINJSTANLEY said:
hi all/Sdrio
the latest post suggests to me that perhaps Sdrio has got a bad un, it does happen in any product that from time to time one finished item has many issues, I would however be more concerned that the customer services both at the dealership and Yam are not cooperating.
I have had our C4 piccaso from new [2014 new model] and I am back and to from the dealership with electrical issues that are intermittent, however to be fair to them they have taken the time to look at it each time and done what ever they do. this is what I would expect from any dealership especially big ones like in with your problem Sdrio .
but as I am yet to pick my MT up I sympathise with Sdrio and hope to god mine will be ok
4 days and waiting
Click to expand...

Yamaha haven't been uncooperative, as such, they've just given up without fixing anything, saying they couldn't find anything wrong, and are basically saying take it to the dealer, who I've already said are ignoring any requests for warranty inspections.

To be honest I've spent so much time and agro trying to sort this, I have given up. I just use it to go to work and back, and when I've got some money I'll trade it in for something else. It won't be a Yamaha, of course.

And30ers - my clutch judders and slips when the bike is cold. I've taken it back twice. The first time they did a service, and seemed surprised when I asked if they'd checked the clutch. The mechanic then gave me some bullshit about how it was common in Yamaha cross plane technology bikes, and an oil change was the cure, which it wasn't. I took it back again, it went to Yamaha for 6 weeks, and came back still stalling and as far as I know the dealer didn't even mention the clutch problem to them.

I've sent the dealer 4 emails asking them to look at the clutch again, they haven't replied to any of them.

The result is that I have to be careful not to let the revs drop when I pull away, to avoid stalling, but I have to pull away gently, or the clutch will slip.

Forgive me for ranting, but I have a seriously defective bike, and the warranty hasn't been worth the paper it's written on.
 
Ok sdrio, you have experienced poor service from Yam and the dealer, that's no fun for sure.

Surprised about clutch issue, it's not rocket science I guess. You have friction plates swimming in oil, nothing new here. Are you using proper 10w40 MA2 oil or is it some random MA spec Yamalube? Have anyone checked the pressure plate clearance to be in the range of 1.0 to 1.5 mm, ideally 1.2 to 1.4 mm? Ask your dealer or any other proper racebike shop to do this for you, if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.
View attachment 1572

If it still slips, you can just throw in a couple of harder springs. Should sort it.

Not at all saying that I'm an expert of any kind, but if you give your bike to one who is I would be surprised if he can't fix your clutch issues within an hour or two.
 
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Hi And30ers,

I have been thinking about that - not that I'm an expert at all, but I did wonder if stronger springs would help.

About checking etc, I suspect nobody has even looked at it. The first time I took it back to Motorcycle store they mistakenly thought I'd booked it in for a service, so probably did nothing, and the second time it went straight to Yamaha, and when I got it back and it still did it, I asked if they had checked it, they knew nothing about it.

Ref oil - it has whatever the dealer and Yamaha put in it. It has had the oil changed 3 times now, with just under 6,000 miles on the clock. I haven't done anything myself.

I might look at changing the clutch myself though, maybe put a heavy duty one in?
 
sdrio said:
Yamaha haven't been uncooperative, as such, they've just given up without fixing anything, saying they couldn't find anything wrong, and are basically saying take it to the dealer, who I've already said are ignoring any requests for warranty inspections.

To be honest I've spent so much time and agro trying to sort this, I have given up. I just use it to go to work and back, and when I've got some money I'll trade it in for something else. It won't be a Yamaha, of course.

And30ers - my clutch judders and slips when the bike is cold. I've taken it back twice. The first time they did a service, and seemed surprised when I asked if they'd checked the clutch. The mechanic then gave me some bullshit about how it was common in Yamaha cross plane technology bikes, and an oil change was the cure, which it wasn't. I took it back again, it went to Yamaha for 6 weeks, and came back still stalling and as far as I know the dealer didn't even mention the clutch problem to them.

I've sent the dealer 4 emails asking them to look at the clutch again, they haven't replied to any of them.

The result is that I have to be careful not to let the revs drop when I pull away, to avoid stalling, but I have to pull away gently, or the clutch will slip.

Forgive me for ranting, but I have a seriously defective bike, and the warranty hasn't been worth the paper it's written on.
Click to expand...

Somewhat had the same experience with a Kawasaki Z750 (had stalling issue when releasing the throttle while shifting). It was gone for months, but they couldn't find anything. So in the end I was left with the bike and they (Kawasaki, dealer was very good) didn't do anything for me.

I've learned my lesson: take some legal insurance, and as soon as you hit a problem such as this -> hand it over to them. Make sure things get done right, and you have 'your consumer rights covered'.
It's really weird Yamaha and your dealer don't do anything anymore for you, especially since your are still within warranty. And the problem has started way early, so they can't really deny that either. Another reason to get another party involved: it's not personal for them. You might get angry, yell something or say stuff that is not in your favor. You can avoid all that by letting someone else handle it. No cure no pay solutions available where you live? Might be worth checking that out.


Anyway, all motorcycles oxidate when you drive them through winter wetness. It's not a difficult task to pick out bikes that have been driven all winter long. From the expensive ones to the cheap ones. Doing so in winter conditions without proper protecting your brand new bike (because there are multiple solutions available to help protect against oxidation) is also just throwing away money.
 
sdrio said:
Hi And30ers,

I have been thinking about that - not that I'm an expert at all, but I did wonder if stronger springs would help.

About checking etc, I suspect nobody has even looked at it. The first time I took it back to Motorcycle store they mistakenly thought I'd booked it in for a service, so probably did nothing, and the second time it went straight to Yamaha, and when I got it back and it still did it, I asked if they had checked it, they knew nothing about it.

Ref oil - it has whatever the dealer and Yamaha put in it. It has had the oil changed 3 times now, with just under 6,000 miles on the clock. I haven't done anything myself.

I might look at changing the clutch myself though, maybe put a heavy duty one in?
Click to expand...

Replacing springs is 3rd and last option, no point if you are using incorrect MA-spec oil and/or incorrect pressure plate clearance. Replacing oil is dead simple, you don't need to open the motor for that. Checking clearance is more work and MUST be done before start thinking about other springs. I strongly beleive the springs are hard enough, but you might want them to be harder than the average rider.

Use only MA2 oil, nothing else. Not MA1. Not MA. And for sure not MB, but that's pretty obvious for any mechanic.
 
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and30ers said:
Replacing springs is 3rd and last option, no point if you are using incorrect MA-spec oil and incorrect pressure plate clearance. Replacing oil is dead simple, you don't need to open the motor for that. Checking clearance is more work and MUST be done before start thinking about other springs. I strongly beleive the springs are hard enough, but you might want them to be harder than the average rider.

Use only MA2 oil, nothing else. Not MA1. Not MA. And for sure not MB, but that's pretty obvious for any mechanic.
Click to expand...

No disrespect, and I appreciate your input, but none of that means anything to me - it's the kind of thing the people who sold it to me should be checking. I can change the oil, but I'd have no clue how to check the clearance.

What it means is I'm going to have to take it to another dealer, and probably pay them to do all this for me. This is what is so frustrating about it.

It's due for a service (notwithstanding the fact it already had one), I'll take it to a different dealer and see if they can look at it under warranty.

Thanks a lot for your help, I'll do a bit of Googling with your suggestions, there's no harm in understanding how it works.
 
The simple answer about M__ is the friction index. Low value = low friction. High value = high friction.
DFI is Dynamic Friction Index, SFI is Static Friction Index and STI is Stop Time Index.

MB is lowest friction oils, used in dry-clutch bikes like Ducatis and some BMW's. The clutch is not swimming in it.
MA is for wet clutch, but tolerances on index are high see sample 4-9 above.
MA1 and MA2 both qualify as MA oils, but have tighter specifications.
MA2 has the highest friction. This is the only oil to use!

See table above.

Read on the label when shopping. Should say: Fully synthetic. JASO MA2. API:SM. Brand or price is not relevant!
 
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