Recent content by marthy

I tough those GPR slip-on only had a 1 3/4" outlet? Double check... I remember a member in the other house took that route in the early days and end up actually loosing HP LOL I used the Delkevic DS70 Carbon fiber on mine, sound mean! :)

You're not the first unfortunately... there's been a few. I never had issues since I swap my handlebars in the early days for the Pro Tapper Carmichael. They are about 2" lower so the cable sit at a proper angle. Do some search, some use a longer cable from a different Yamaha. I can't remember...

Just add one or two more outlets. I did that on my FZ6R just to mess around and I actually liked it. Give the exhaust a dual tone... (oem + one louder)

Someone in the other house had some issues and apparently the chain skip a tooth. I have the APE manual CCT for close to 10K miles now... absolutely no issues and never had to readjust it as of right now. I did a "How to" in the other house, not that hard to DIY with very minimal tools. Just...

Pick up is accessible from the LH side if the bike. I use a Speedo Healer and the correction is -10.2% for F-1 (15T) RPM are about +500 at 120KMH or 70MPH. For me it was a track thing, 3rd gear was just a bit long in some corners and I wasn't using 6th.

Follow the cables lol

I did notice the same thing too, much stiffer than my FZ6R. I end up pulling the spring off and heating it up with a propane torch until glowing red. Then air cool... do not dump in water! I like it better like that...

Glad your bike is on rail! If your bike still get loose a bit under hard acceleration, try to open the LSB a bit. That should let the rear end set a bit better on initial throttle.

When I got the bike I play with this a bit on stock suspension. Lowering the front end 8-10 mm greatly help to get the front end feel more planted. You achieve the same with the 2008-10 ZX-10 shock but by rising the rear end instead. I have a solid 10-12K miles on this package with no issues...

ZX-14 shock maybe? The canister was strait up or at an angle? There's a pretty good chart here from all X-reference.

I bought a set of China rotors similar to those. Was fine for normal riding but I killed them at the track (glazing). I opted for the EBC pro rotors instead (320mm). Quite more expensive but it gets the job done! I left the rear brake alone...

I forgot about removing them on my first track day. By the second or third seesion I was getting more confident and leaning a bit more... until the peg filler dig the ground. That gave me a gpod wiggle in the turn. I pit in right away and remove took them off. Pretty close to have to change...

I'm at the point where I touch the pegs & wear out the tips of my boots. Next step is some rearsets. Not something I would attempt on the street.

For emissions inspection, settings the G, Y & R led to 3.0 will be stock settings... no fuel added. 2.5 and lower the controller lean the mixture from stock.

You are borderline for the 9.1kg/mm but I would give it a try. I would go max with 9.4kg/mm if I was you, unless you do a lot of 2up riding the oem shock would work better. I'm 180 and use the 9.1kg / mm