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fitting zx6r rear shock


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Hy lads. managed to get zx6r rear shock for MT09. could any one tell me which way is best to fit it, is it with the main body facing up or down. was wondering how you can do adjustments with shock on bike as all the adjusters are either hidden or facing down. many thanks for any help with this as do not want f---- it up.:confused:
 
hi Olyson
3 years ago i've fitted a zx10r '09 rear shock with the gas-bottle facing downwards. It fits like glove and lets a few mm space from the kick starter, so there aren't any "overheat" matter.
Best way and simplest to fit it is to loosening the conectting bolt between swing arm and shock... my mechanic did it that way in 5 minutes.
As for the adjustments, the 14mm nut for the high speed bouncing is easily accesible from the right side of bike with an extended tool.
In the ceter of the 14mm nut is a screw for the low speed bouncing, easy to do cheges with a flat screwdriver.
At the other side of bike, on the bottom of the zx shock is a screw for the rebound.
The only "difficultty" is to play with the preload as you need a screwdriver ana a hammer to reduce or increase the preload.
After 2 years of experimentary every day use i 've find the best setting for my weight (150lbs) 68kg, which is spring length 180mm, high and low speed bouncing and rebound at the middle.
If you are slim as me set the preload at 180mm before fit it on your bike.
Use it for some hundreds of km/mi and then start corrections according the roads that you are riding.
Generally, the golden rule for 09 is "the softer the better" if you like to push it in cornering...
Good luck!
 
thanks Motorcycleboy for imfo great help. will reply when fitted
 
By coincidence I got around today to fitting a ZX6RR shock that I bought from forumite Stuggesjord a couple of months ago.

As above, reservoir down, and I've checked and left everything 'in the middle' for starters.

I removed the exhaust to gain access to one of the dog bone bolts and the lower shock bolt, I can do few other things whilst the exhaust is off, so it might be next weekend before I can report back on the effect on the handling of the ZX6RR shock.

The other thing I did was re-route the negative lead from the battery to the starter motor and loosen the bolt securing the ring tag for the lead on the starter motor, the lead was being trapped by the reservoir, re-routing it over the top resolved that (disconnect the negative lead on the battery and associated connectors and pull back through and around the adjacent loom to allow enough slack in the lead to go over the top of the reservoir).
 
Finally got round to bolting it all back together late last night and went out for shakedown test today - yes the ZX6RR shock is more composed, without any adjustment from all settings in the middle it's firm but compliant.......and it shows up the forks, I might back off the preload on the forks to see if that helps with the tendency to run wide.

For anyone that's fitted alternative fork springs and oil, what did you fit/spring rate and what oil weight did you use and with how much preload/rebound?
 
any chance of pics of your fitted zx6 shock mate as looking at doing this myself soon, particularly around the resvoir as yo say you mounted it up the other way, guessing this means no cutting off the tray?
 
Last edited:
Cavetroll87 said:
any chance of pics of your fitted zx6 shock mate as looking at doing this myself soon, particularly around the resvoir as yo say you mounted it up the other way, guessing this means no cutting off the tray?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'll take some tomorrow but probably won't be able to see much with the tank on.
There was actually more clearance between the reservoir (mounted reservoir down) and starter motor than I thought there would be.

It's not a difficult job just time consuming if you take the exhaust off - I did that to get at the bottom shock mount more easily and to save taking any paint off the swingarm if I slipped with a spanner.
The exhaust comes off easily, getting it back on wasn't so easy but can be done by one person.

With the shock linkage apart it was an opportunity to grease the bearings.
 
cheers mate, Ive had the exhaust off a few weeks back anyway to fit the new one so that's not a problem at all, I'm fairly confident working on my bikes, just intrigued to see how the upsidedown mounting compares to the standard way round and trimming out the plastic tray which I don't really fancy.
 
L & R photos.

I didn't consider mounting it the other way up, as it is you can just about get to the rebound and compression damping adjusters but to adjust the preload would mean pretty much taking it out because you can't get at the adjustment for that.

IMG_20170809_182103860.webpIMG_20170809_182034205.webp
 
Cheers mate that shows me exactly what I wanted to see and answers my questions! That's what I had assumed with people mounting it the other way in that they made the adjustable stock unadjustable coz you cant get to it, Id heard of people mounting them the other way but hadn't seen it so good to get an idea before I start it.
 
RussR said:
L & R photos.

I didn't consider mounting it the other way up, as it is you can just about get to the rebound and compression damping adjusters but to adjust the preload would mean pretty much taking it out because you can't get at the adjustment for that.

View attachment 4925
Click to expand...

Question about the first pic. As far as i can see, is there any case that, when the rear wheel go to a big bump, the nipple from gas reservoir to "touch" the frame?
Thanks in advance!
 
kdimitris - there's no evidence of the reservoir valve coming in to contact with the inner face of the clutch housing/top half of crankcase.

I did have to remove some more material from the rim/lip/edge of the reservoir as there was evidence that that was coming in to contact with the clutch housing/top half of crankcase but was only a very light grazing, barely taking the paint off.
 
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