-
Welcome to the Yamaha MT-09 / FZ-09 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.
Designed and 3D printed my own passenger peg blanking plates
lcman
0
Now that's a clever solution, I like that idea could you print more and in different colours ??
So I tried replying to this thread about a day ago. But new accounts have to be moderated on the first posts replies so yeah... Kind of frustrating but I guess it's a crude way of keeping away spammers/flamers and similar.
EDIT:
And apparently now it's accepting my replies instantly and my pending reply to this thread is waiting approval I guess?
EDIT:
And apparently now it's accepting my replies instantly and my pending reply to this thread is waiting approval I guess?
Torque1
0
Hi kodde. I'd buy these from you. Would it be worth you printing x amount of these based on feedback in this thread. If you are willing then give a price and postage to UK (or other countries). I'm sure many on this thread would pay a sufficient amount for it to be worth your while.
Torque> Not sure if my old reply to this thread is still in some pending state of moderation or not. But anyway, as I wrote in this post I've been asked to print things for people in the past and generally it is not worth my while because people fail to see the work behind 3D printing something. My spare time is limited as it is.
Tell you what, get me at least 4 people who want to buy a pair at £15 + postage cost. Payment through Paypal beforehand. I'll detach one of the plates tonight and weigh it. I'm estimating somewhere between £2 - £5 depending on weight and what packaging costs to send within Europe. But I'll have to get back with a more precise cost.
I've printed with a Mendel90 (Nophead's). PLA plastic at 0,2mm with 30% infill. I.e. quite dense internal structure which should hold up pretty well. You wouldn't want to tighten bolts quite as much as with a metal part, but far from frail. I've left it at default recommended printing speeds. Takes about ~1h50m to print a pair. I work with teaching Autodesk Maya for a living so therefore it is the 3D software I've used to create this part.
When it comes to visual quality you do get some artifacts if you look closely, partly due to there being flat surfaces. But hardly visible at distance. Have a look at this closeup for reference. Here's another high res image fairly close while mounted on the bike.
Color wise I haven't got an abundance of colors. Straight up black, white, red, blue(not "race blue") and yellow. It's a bit of hassle for me to switch colors between prints so I'd prefer to stick to black. Some of the other colors have been a bit iffy quality wise in terms if usability. The finished prints with these iffy colors have been fine as far as I can tell, but I've had the plastic filament thread snap at times when feeding into the printer head if I had left that plastic spool in the printer for a while. For those of you not familiar, far from every print is a success. But once you've nailed down the settings and got a got a good model you generally continue to get good prints if you don't change and variables such as plastic filament, print settings, etc.
Tell you what, get me at least 4 people who want to buy a pair at £15 + postage cost. Payment through Paypal beforehand. I'll detach one of the plates tonight and weigh it. I'm estimating somewhere between £2 - £5 depending on weight and what packaging costs to send within Europe. But I'll have to get back with a more precise cost.
I've printed with a Mendel90 (Nophead's). PLA plastic at 0,2mm with 30% infill. I.e. quite dense internal structure which should hold up pretty well. You wouldn't want to tighten bolts quite as much as with a metal part, but far from frail. I've left it at default recommended printing speeds. Takes about ~1h50m to print a pair. I work with teaching Autodesk Maya for a living so therefore it is the 3D software I've used to create this part.
When it comes to visual quality you do get some artifacts if you look closely, partly due to there being flat surfaces. But hardly visible at distance. Have a look at this closeup for reference. Here's another high res image fairly close while mounted on the bike.
Color wise I haven't got an abundance of colors. Straight up black, white, red, blue(not "race blue") and yellow. It's a bit of hassle for me to switch colors between prints so I'd prefer to stick to black. Some of the other colors have been a bit iffy quality wise in terms if usability. The finished prints with these iffy colors have been fine as far as I can tell, but I've had the plastic filament thread snap at times when feeding into the printer head if I had left that plastic spool in the printer for a while. For those of you not familiar, far from every print is a success. But once you've nailed down the settings and got a got a good model you generally continue to get good prints if you don't change and variables such as plastic filament, print settings, etc.
Thanks for the info. I reckon they look as good as any other 3d printed piece I've seen. This seems to still be a technology that has some way to go before it's 100% ready for the mainstream.
Unfortunately though, as I carry a pillion regularly, I'm not in the market for these.
Unfortunately though, as I carry a pillion regularly, I'm not in the market for these.
I suppose I mean when it becomes commonplace, like PCs or television. When most people have one.
I think it's really exciting tech. I'm just not sure I have the patience to deal with the aborted attempts/wonky prints that apparently are very common with the current state of the art non industrial printers.
Hats off to you though, your stuff looks very smart.
Thanks,
I don't think it will ever become as commonplace as a PC or television. But I get what you are saying. I do believe it will get more reliable. Faster printing speeds for consumer grade printers would be lovely as well. You do get the failed/wonky attempts every now and then, especially when you attempt new advanced prints. Still lots of fun and exciting if you're a dedicated enthusiast. Especially if you know how to create your own 3D models. But you shouldn't kid yourself that is just success after success, not by far.
I don't think it will ever become as commonplace as a PC or television. But I get what you are saying. I do believe it will get more reliable. Faster printing speeds for consumer grade printers would be lovely as well. You do get the failed/wonky attempts every now and then, especially when you attempt new advanced prints. Still lots of fun and exciting if you're a dedicated enthusiast. Especially if you know how to create your own 3D models. But you shouldn't kid yourself that is just success after success, not by far.
Torque1
0
blah, didn't mean to post
Last edited:
I did detach the left hand side print yesterday and put it on a scale. 12g. Which would probably put the other side at around 14g-15g. From what I can tell postage should end up at around £2.0-£2.5. I'm going to verify with the post office first.
So we have two people committed so far?
Torque> You're not interested?
So we have two people committed so far?
Torque> You're not interested?
D
Deleted member 20
Guest
Not that I have have any right to complain or change your idea or design ...but if it was for my bike I would consider using:
● A straight piece, the curve does nothing for form or function.
● Stock MT-07 font, with the squared numbers you know.
● Logo engraved instead of embossed, straight side walls instead of "staired". By using engraving one could possibly achieve 2 things - possibility to sand top of piece to better finish and possibly to fill logo with paint of choice.
● A straight piece, the curve does nothing for form or function.
● Stock MT-07 font, with the squared numbers you know.
● Logo engraved instead of embossed, straight side walls instead of "staired". By using engraving one could possibly achieve 2 things - possibility to sand top of piece to better finish and possibly to fill logo with paint of choice.
and30ers> I agree with the font thing, definitely. If I could find the font to begin with and I were to redo it I'd use that. I'd want the font file though, not just a high res image of the text. Since I used the "Text tool" in Maya I get the model for the text element for "free" in that sense. I don't have to push polygons and shape it myself from reference. You could possible trace an image with the "MT-07" text, export vector paths to Maya and import them as curves. Then extrude from that. Still more time consuming.
I don't agree with having it curved does nothing. To me it was an intentional choice because I think it breaks the lines subtly, i.e. draws attention to that area which I wanted. Were I to make it straight you wouldn't notice as much.
I was a bit torn about having it engraved instead of embossed. But seeing as I had no plans on painting it I like embossed better. Why? It captures light at more angles and makes it "pop" better. Makes it perceived as three dimensional in a better way in my opinion. The "staired" angle helps with this as well. Speaking of sanding it I would do it in ABS plastic instead if I could get ABS to stick properly to my printing surface. You can easily use acetone fumes on an ABS print to make it smooth and give it a nice glossy finish, for instance like this print I've done in the past. ABS is more difficult to print with if you're not familiar with it. You get more warping, delamination and issues with it not sticking properly to the print surface.
I think this mostly boils down to matter of opinion and amount of time you want to invest in a project like this. You're welcome to use my model for reference and create your own version if you'd like. It's available here:
MT-07/FZ-07 passenger footpeg blanking plate by kodde - Thingiverse
I don't agree with having it curved does nothing. To me it was an intentional choice because I think it breaks the lines subtly, i.e. draws attention to that area which I wanted. Were I to make it straight you wouldn't notice as much.
I was a bit torn about having it engraved instead of embossed. But seeing as I had no plans on painting it I like embossed better. Why? It captures light at more angles and makes it "pop" better. Makes it perceived as three dimensional in a better way in my opinion. The "staired" angle helps with this as well. Speaking of sanding it I would do it in ABS plastic instead if I could get ABS to stick properly to my printing surface. You can easily use acetone fumes on an ABS print to make it smooth and give it a nice glossy finish, for instance like this print I've done in the past. ABS is more difficult to print with if you're not familiar with it. You get more warping, delamination and issues with it not sticking properly to the print surface.
I think this mostly boils down to matter of opinion and amount of time you want to invest in a project like this. You're welcome to use my model for reference and create your own version if you'd like. It's available here:
MT-07/FZ-07 passenger footpeg blanking plate by kodde - Thingiverse
Last edited: