I'm assuming you mean just a check for the brake pads & fluid levels? I'd guess it's a bit early to be changing them. (Edit - just seen Sdrio's post which says much the same)
Speaking of brakes, something that's worth doing after using in the winter is to clean up the brake pistons, and in the case of the rear brake, clean and lube the sliding mechanism.
For the front calipers, take them off the bike, take a photo of how the anti-rattle springs etc. fit, take out the pads and pop out each piston in turn so maybe 10mm is showing - obviously don't let them come so far that fluid starts leaking out!. On a new-ish bike they should be free enough that you can hold them back by hand while you pump out the one you want to attend to, but if you're really keen you can use a clamp, cable ties and/or fitted chunks of wood to hold them in. Clean them up all round (a length of plastic strapping is good for this, to get all round the back) and give them a thin coating of red rubber grease (NOT ordinary grease, which will rot the seals). .Clean up the steel bits of the pads and make sure they slide freely in the guides. You can use copper grease on the backs and ends, but don't get any on the friction surfaces. Reassemble them (you did take that photo, right?) and refit them to the forks. The bolt torque is in the Owner's Handbook.
For the rear caliper it's basically the same idea, but you also need to check that everything slides around smoothly, and clean/grease parts as necessary.
If all this is done regularly, and the fluid is changed every 2-3 years, the calipers should last for many years without any other attention. If it isn't done, there's the risk of seized pistons, which means a full caliper overhaul, re-bleed etc. which is much more hassle.
Another thing is to make sure the chain hasn't developed any tight spots, and give it a good clean and lube. And lube everything else that moves - as Sdrio says, cables, but also the brake and gear lever pivots etc.
Tyre-wise, everyone has their own preferences. Personally for general purpose use I like Conti Motions as giving good performance and life at a decent price - see
Motorbike Tyres But the cost obviously depends on who is going to do the fitting, and whether you want a ride-in, ride-out service or are prepared to take the bare wheels in. I have to say I don't really like ride-in, ride-out because I prefer to do a thorough check around (and maybe a good clean) while the wheel is out, and make sure the chain is readjusted properly when it goes back in. And now there are the ABS sensors that need careful handling.
I decided a while ago to start doing my own tyres, which I've always done on tubed tyres anyway. This was to save both money and time, as the nearest bike tyre place to me is an hour's round trip away, and they can't always do it immediately. The basic kit (a bead breaker and a couple of levers) is not expensive, and you get your money back after a few changes. But it does involve a knack and plenty of lube, and access to a compressor if you don't have your own, although sometimes they will seal with just a footpump.
All that should keep you busy for a while! Have fun
