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Auxiliary DC Connector


J

Jesper

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Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
18
Location
Denmark
Hi guys

So I bought a GPS for the bike, and wants to use the DC Connector located on the left on the bike, as shown below.
I want to purchase a connector to connect to the GPS' wires, but I can't seem to find any. Can anyone help?

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  • 2014-10-06 08_22_35-MT-07 Owner's Manual.pdf (SECURED) - Adobe Reader.webp
    2014-10-06 08_22_35-MT-07 Owner's Manual.pdf (SECURED) - Adobe Reader.webp
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Jesper

This is the only way I have found to connect into this connector, on the bike the plug has a blank male end, I cannot find that male end anywhere but I have tracked down a solution, from the link below you can buy this plug and not use the housing, the terminals are the correct ones and the seals fit the Yamaha male part of the plug, a little expensive for 2 terminals and 2 seals but this is the only way I have found to do it, the part numbers to search for are Durite 0-011-52, 2 way male superseal 1.5mm connector

Durite 'Superseal' 1.5mm 2 Way Male Blade Housing 0-011-52 | eBay

Hope this helps

Gaz
 
Here is the part of their catalogue with that connector in it, perhaps something more suitable as well? http://www.durite.co.uk/pdf/2014/4/04.02_Cable_and_Wiring-Multiple_connectors.pdf

I'm also looking for a good connector that can be used directly..

Addition:
Found some info from the MT09, they use this connector: 'Sumitomo MT 090 Series', the 'MT090-2' type to be precise. Only site I found that sells it so far is: Motorcycle MT .090 - Connector and Terminals
Still think something could (should?) be found cheaper, but so far no luck.. (btw, the name of the connector is only a funny coincidence).

Guess it's the same connector?
 
Last edited:
You already have the connector on the bike you just need the terminals and the seals to complete the connection.
 
Mauros, this will do the job, the housing will not plug into the yamaha plug, you will use the terminals and the rear seals you already have the connector on the bike but there is no terminals in the plug. The terminals will fit into the original connector
Spoonflames, this plug is fed by a 2amp fuse from the fuse box so as long as your accessory is rated less than 2amp or 20watt you'll be good to plug into this
 
This is all you need but you will not be using the outer casing, you will only need the terminals and the rear seals, the outer casing is already plugged in on your bike, Yamaha use this as a blanking plug to stop water getting into the wiring loom

Durite 'Superseal' 1.5mm 2 Way Male Blade Housing 0-011-52 | eBay

I cannot find the terminals and the seals to buy on there own, I know its a bit of a waste but this is the only way I have found of doing the job, if you get to the connector on your bike all will become clear
 
Weird it's so hard to find the actual connector (type). Would make it more easy to connect all kind of stuff. Yamaha ain't very helpful either, so far they don't want to say what connector is used :)

Building something yourself might be better. Taking power from the battery with a relay working from the headlight (if you know what I mean). And then get some nice waterproof connectors from eBay and connect away! :p
 
Eventually found the auxiliary plug today. Expected to see a blank plug hanging loose under the tank but with a bit of searching and help from here realised that what I thought was connected in to the loom was what I was looking for. Disconnected the male end realised that the female end could simply be pulled out of the loom safely. Threw the female bit away and replaced the male bit with a spare connector (male and female) that a mate had hanging around and used that for the sat nav.
 
FWIW, I didn't use it at all when I plumbed my heated grips in. I put the - straight onto the negative battery terminal, then spliced the positive into the + wire to the back light, logic being it switches off when I switch the bike off. The grips have their own inline fuse anyway.

Probably wouldn't want to do that with anything too power hungry, but a couple of amps should be fine. I've done the same thing on several bikes, and in 5 years have never blown a fuse.

To be fair, the proper way to do it is to use a relay but I just thought that was overkill.
 
sdrio said:
FWIW, I didn't use it at all when I plumbed my heated grips in. I put the - straight onto the negative battery terminal, then spliced the positive into the + wire to the back light, logic being it switches off when I switch the bike off. The grips have their own inline fuse anyway.

Probably wouldn't want to do that with anything too power hungry, but a couple of amps should be fine. I've done the same thing on several bikes, and in 5 years have never blown a fuse.

To be fair, the proper way to do it is to use a relay but I just thought that was overkill.
Click to expand...

I just wired my Oxford grips to the battery, not worrying about a relay or switched power.
No problem with them draining the battery so far, and not at all worried about the electrical system.
 
Noggie said:
I just wired my Oxford grips to the battery, not worrying about a relay or switched power.
No problem with them draining the battery so far, and not at all worried about the electrical system.
Click to expand...

I believe they've changed the system, was probably you that gave us the run through of it - the older ones would knack the battery if left on, but now they are a bit smarter and can tell when the bike isn't running.

The ones I use are the lite (scooter?) ones, as the full version has an electronic controller, and on the ones I had that controller stopped working. The lite ones have a simple rocker switch, and just as importantly cost half as much!

I'm not sure they'd have any autosensing capability, so they probably need to be wired to an ignition activated circuit. I'm glad to know Oxford got that sorted though, the old ones were sold as 'auto off when low voltage sensed', but in fact would drain the battery well past the point you could start the bike before they tripped.
 
sdrio said:
I believe they've changed the system, was probably you that gave us the run through of it - the older ones would knack the battery if left on, but now they are a bit smarter and can tell when the bike isn't running.

The ones I use are the lite (scooter?) ones, as the full version has an electronic controller, and on the ones I had that controller stopped working. The lite ones have a simple rocker switch, and just as importantly cost half as much!

I'm not sure they'd have any autosensing capability, so they probably need to be wired to an ignition activated circuit. I'm glad to know Oxford got that sorted though, the old ones were sold as 'auto off when low voltage sensed', but in fact would drain the battery well past the point you could start the bike before they tripped.
Click to expand...

Yeah that makes a difference. I got mine in September last year.

The ones I had actually specified in the instructions to just connect it directly to the battery, without a relay or anything not included in the kit.
There may have been a fuse on the positive terminal though, they apparently sense two things, battery voltage, and switches off if the voltage drops below a certain level, and it is able to sense that the engine is running based on the alternator "noise" and shut off if not present. Guess similar to those speaker things you put in your cars cigarette lighter to get a V8 sound, it uses the same "noise" to determine the engine rpm and give you that bigger engine sound.
 
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